![]() In practice things expand and contract, settle, bend, and bow. Yes in theory you could build a door with a slight bevel on the inside of the hinge side edge and have it close with and have a frame the exact same size as the door on the outside edges. Reading through comments seems like you have a good idea of what you want to do, that said you are talking about building something with tolerances that will not work for a carpentry project. This could have been easily sketched out on a piece of plywood at full scale onsite to figure out the bevel based on your door size. If I want my reveal to be 1/8" when closed, I'll need a 3.4 degree bevel on the following edge of the door. In my drawing I have a 1-3/4" thick door at 24" wide. So over time when the hose shifts or settles, the door can be adjusted and installation is 100% easier because there is adjustability in the hinge to get the gaps just perfect, They carry more weight so you can get away with fewer hinges on large doors, they have bearings and are fully adjustable. They are more expensive but SOOO much better than SOSS. One more piece of advice, look into Tectus hinges. My drawing is for a butt hinge but will be drawn the same for a SOSS hinge. This way you can go with the absolute minimum bevel for your application and always have the proper clearance when opening the door. ![]() You can figure this out by drawing a top down view of the door and jamb, then locate the pivot point of the hinge and draw a circle to the leading edge of the door. The narrower the door the larger the bevel. The bevel on the latch side will change depending on the door thickness and the width of the door. You need to either undersize the door so the following edge clears the jamb or you need to bevel the door. A square door in a jamb will not have clearance when opening when using any hinge, even a SOSS hinge.
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